ZERO MOTORCYCLES DSR

After owning 63 ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) Bikes my first Electric Bike. The 2018 Zero DSR with Charge Tank.

INDIAN 741 SCOUT 500CC 2 CYL

My Uncle bought an Indian Motorcycle just after the 2nd World War.

He bought it from a Military Dump Store for 550 Dutch Guilders, with is about 250 Euro’s nowadays.

Matching numbers: Frame number 741 15151, Engine Number GDA 15151.

They were made from 1941 -1944

741  GDA101-up, 741101-up, Military 741(b) lightweight 30.50ci 

All Export 741's GDA101 & up were supplied with blackout lighting as standard.

I wonder if this bike is still “alive” If somebody has seen this bike just let me know please…..

As World War II loomed, the United States military set about drawing up specifications for a useful, universal motorcycle, and put its construction out for bid.

But though several manufacturers submitted bids, ultimately designed and manufactured motorcycles to sell, there’s little doubt that the US Military preferred Harley-Davidson’s WLA to any other brand or style of motorcycle in the WWII era.

Offering several machines based on production bikes, Indian tried to compete but initially without much success.

The sales success came when Indian offered the 741 based on the civilian Thirty-Fifty model.

The US Army favored the 45 cubic inches of the WLA Harley-Davidson, and this Indian was but 30.5 cubic inches, or 500cc.

However, the little twin proved to be very durable and reliable and ultimately some 35,000 were produced, mainly for the Allies. 

Incidentally, Harley riders in the military had difficulty with the Indian’s foot clutch operated with the heel; Harley’s required the toe.

Engine performance is about 15 HP at 4,800 rpm. Ignition is by battery and coil, (the B in the model designation points to battery /coil ignition) weight is 450 lb., top speed 65 mph.

Transmission is 3 speed hand shift, tires 3.50 x 18.

After the war many thousands of these sturdy machines became available for civilian use and they were subsequently dressed up in civilian guise.

BMW R69S 1968

BMW R69S 1968

After I owned a BMW R60/2 I was looking for a BMW /2 conversion, preferably a R/2 frame with a R75 engine.

I had already seen several, but if you are looking for such a bike, you cannot find one.

Several bikes in parts but they were all missing the sheet metal parts.

On my search I came across this beautiful R69S.

It had only 2 owners since 29-03-1968 when it first hit the road.

The motorcycle was made on 07-09-1966 and delivered to the Dutch importer Hart Nibbrig & Greeve N.V. in Sassenheim on the 15-09-1966

The first owner had it in his possession for 13 years and the 2nd owner, a very nice lady, for 31 years until 2012, after which the motorcycle ended up in storage.

For some time the motorcycle got restored by Harry Meijer on behalf of Theo Terwel who did all the paint work.

It got some beautiful aluminum rims, a “Schorsch Meier” Tank and a 12 Volt Alternator Conversion Kit.

The original 6v generator delivers 60 watts it was replaced by a 12v alternator witch delivers 200 watts.

This system does not affect the (Bosch magneto) ignition system that came standard on the /2

So you will be able to run the engine on one cylinder for tuning.

After the first run fuel was dripping out of the idle mix screw.

It turned out to be one of the brass floats was cracked.

Cracking of the floats results in the floats taking in fuel and becoming heavier and that caused the overflow.

I replaced them with plastic (7 gram) floats.

500 Km service:

I Replaced all the fluids.

For the Engine I use Castrol Classic XL30.

For the transmission, drive shaft and final drive I use Millers oils Classic Gear Oil 80w90 GL 4

Carburetor:

One cable adjusting screw was completely in and the other completely out and still the bike was not running smooth.

I found out that there were 2 different Throttle cables, one from a R51/2-R68 and one from a R50/5.

For sure, that doesn’t work.

I will replace them with the original parts.

Gearbox:

Downshifting from 4 to 3 and 3 to 2 was sometimes a problem.

At times it would pop out of gear.

My first thought was that it needed a proper run in because the gearbox was overhauled. 

If one carefully inspects the shift lever it seems to have been designed for the pin to go in from the top.  A review of my old books and photos show it both ways.  I suspect that BMW designed it to go in from the top, the logical way.  A close look at the lever shows that it has a “flat” where one would expect the nut and washer to go.  Later they found that a certain percentage wouldn’t stay in gear due to the lever hitting the exhaust pipe.  Rather than redesign the lever they just switched the pin and solved the problem. (DuaneAusherman)

Mobil Mix Gas Cap

BMW SLASH 2 CONVERSION R50-R69S 750-1000cc Engine

A Basic Guideline to Building a 1955 – 1969 BMW R50-R69S Conversion

Background

I like to restore and work on motorcycles.

Not only make them like new but also improve them but keep their original look as much as possible.

Some of the bikes I worked on before:

Harley-Davidson Knucklehead

Triumph Thruxton 904

Norton Commando

BMW K 100 RT TURBO

Harley-Davidson XLCR1000

Buell S1 White Lightning 

For the next project I would like to restore a BMW slash 2

Looking for modifications I came across this article from Brock Downey.

A great help if you are going to do a project like this.

For many years numerous BMW riders have modified their pre-1970 BMW’s to except post 1969 components.

This involves minor frame modifications and a transplant of the engine, transmission, electrical components and various smaller items.

Personal taste influenced by available …. has prevailed.

When completed correctly, the finished product is very satisfying and if cared for will give many years of trouble free service.

The following are a number of reasons to initiate building a conversion 

     ·        Original motor is missing or has self-destructed

·        Currently owned machine is too expensive to repair to regain limited power out put

·        Availability of parts is greater for post 1989 motorcycles

·        Increased power for sidecar use or to meet today’s better paved roads with a solo machine

·        The owner simply wants the reliability of a newer powertrain and electrical system, combined with the classic vintage appearance

Note: ideally this modification should not be undertaken with pre 1970 machines with matching serial numbers, that are affordable candidates for restauration to their original condition.

These bikes should be sold or traded to collectors or restorers.

As a point of interest, a conversion still requires the same level of restauration of a stock bike.

Swingarm, wheel and steering bearings, shocks and springs, brakes shoes and brake drums, spokes, rims, tires and tubes all must be in a good to excellent condition.

The idea of building a conversion is not to build a “bearer” that pogo sticks down the road in a dangerous fashion and doesn’t stop well just because the builder is trying to save a few bucks.

Conversions are actually as expensive as stock restorations.

This is important to know before starting.

Dreams and drawing board

Before starting it is important to take time to discuss the following:

·        What do I want to use the bike for – solo or sidecar

·        How much am I willing to spend

·        When completed, will it be a day-to-day rider or am I going to pull out all the stops and start with a powder coated frame and finish with newly painted body parts

·        Who is a good contact to talk with that has successfully completed a conversion, or is mechanically knowledgeable to help and identify to pros and cons of variety of options available before and during this project

·        Do I have access to local painters, plating, machine and mechanical shops

·        Should I advertise to purchase an already completed Conversion

Thinking out loud

In the early 1960’s BMW upgraded there frames with additional bracing.

This is easily distinguished by looking to see if the lower steering race is braced.

These frames are arguably more suited for a conversion, yet earlier frames without the additional bracing can also be used successfully.

The first items you will need are obviously a pre-1970 machine and a willing post 1969 donor bike or a good parts resource.

A complete 1970’s parts machine may be the least expensive choice.

If you can locate one that is mechanically sound and inexpensive, it may benefit to purchase it and later sell off the remaining parts you do not require and off set the initial purchase price.

Engines from 1978 and prior are the preferred choice for the Earles fork Conversions, due to the shorter engine design.

The later boxer engines will fit the telescopic fork Conversions without the concern for fork clearance.

Good candidates include 750, 900 and 1000cc engines.

The 500 and 600cc engines will also improve reliability, yet may seem as underpowered as the original engines.

The 750-1000cc engine share the same camshaft, therefor you can change/upgrade the cylinders, pistons, heads and carburetors to gain the larger displacement.

The 500 and 600cc engines share the same camshaft and can seem a little off in the event the camshaft is not upgraded to install the 750-1000cc series components.

Staying with the same range of displacement will allow for a minimal amount of difficulty when changing/upgrading top end components.

There are a number of cautions concerning items such as flywheel bolt size and cylinder sleeve to block clearance when trying to upgrade some of the /5 series engines to later components.

This article is not intended to go into that level of detail.

The Project

…………………………. soon, I am still searching …………….

If you know something just let me know ……………………..

here are some very nice examples:

with a sidecar: