After owning 63 ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) Bikes my first Electric Bike. The 2018 Zero DSR with Charge Tank.
woensdag 9 september 2020
dinsdag 30 juni 2020
INDIAN 741 SCOUT 500CC 2 CYL
My Uncle bought an Indian Motorcycle just after the 2nd World War.
He bought it from a Military Dump Store for 550 Dutch Guilders, with is about 250 Euro’s nowadays.
Matching numbers: Frame number 741 15151, Engine Number GDA 15151.
They were made
from 1941 -1944
741 GDA101-up, 741101-up, Military 741(b)
lightweight 30.50ci
All Export 741's GDA101 & up were supplied with
blackout lighting as standard.
I wonder if this
bike is still “alive” If somebody has seen this bike just let me know please…..
As World War II
loomed, the United States military set about drawing up specifications for a
useful, universal motorcycle, and put its construction out for bid.
But though
several manufacturers submitted bids, ultimately designed and manufactured
motorcycles to sell, there’s little doubt that the US Military preferred
Harley-Davidson’s WLA to any other brand or style of motorcycle in the WWII
era.
Offering several
machines based on production bikes, Indian tried to compete but initially
without much success.
The sales
success came when Indian offered the 741 based on the civilian Thirty-Fifty
model.
The US Army favored
the 45 cubic inches of the WLA Harley-Davidson, and this Indian was but 30.5
cubic inches, or 500cc.
However, the
little twin proved to be very durable and reliable and ultimately some 35,000
were produced, mainly for the Allies.
Incidentally, Harley riders in the
military had difficulty with the Indian’s foot clutch operated with the heel;
Harley’s required the toe.
Engine
performance is about 15 HP at 4,800 rpm. Ignition is by battery and coil, (the
B in the model designation points to battery /coil ignition) weight is 450 lb.,
top speed 65 mph.
Transmission is
3 speed hand shift, tires 3.50 x 18.
After the war
many thousands of these sturdy machines became available for civilian use and
they were subsequently dressed up in civilian guise.
vrijdag 22 mei 2020
BMW R69S 1968
BMW R69S 1968
After I owned a BMW R60/2 I
was looking for a BMW
/2 conversion, preferably a R/2 frame with a R75 engine.
I had already
seen several, but if you are looking for such a bike, you cannot find one.
Several bikes in
parts but they were all missing the sheet metal parts.
On my search I
came across this beautiful R69S.
It had only 2
owners since 29-03-1968 when it first hit the road.
The motorcycle
was made on 07-09-1966 and delivered to the Dutch importer Hart Nibbrig &
Greeve N.V. in Sassenheim on the 15-09-1966
The first owner
had it in his possession for 13 years and the 2nd owner, a very nice lady, for
31 years until 2012, after which the motorcycle ended up in storage.
For some time
the motorcycle got restored by Harry Meijer
on behalf of Theo Terwel who did all
the paint work.
It got some
beautiful aluminum rims, a “Schorsch
Meier” Tank and a 12 Volt Alternator
Conversion Kit.
Carburetor:
The original 6v generator delivers
60 watts it was replaced by a 12v alternator witch delivers 200 watts.
This system does not affect
the (Bosch magneto) ignition system that came standard on the /2
So you will be able to run
the engine on one cylinder for tuning.
After the first run fuel was
dripping out of the idle mix screw.
It turned out to be one of
the brass floats was cracked.
Cracking of the floats
results in the floats taking in fuel and becoming heavier and that caused the
overflow.
I replaced them with plastic
(7 gram) floats.
500 Km service:
I Replaced all the fluids.
For the Engine I use Castrol
Classic XL30.
For the transmission, drive
shaft and final drive I use Millers oils Classic Gear Oil 80w90 GL 4
Carburetor:
One cable adjusting screw
was completely in and the other completely out and still the bike was not
running smooth.
I found out that there were
2 different Throttle cables, one from a R51/2-R68 and one from a R50/5.
For sure, that doesn’t work.
I will replace them with the
original parts.
Gearbox:
Downshifting from 4 to 3 and
3 to 2 was sometimes a problem.
At times it would pop out of
gear.
My first thought was that it
needed a proper run in because the gearbox was overhauled.
If one carefully inspects
the shift lever it seems to have been designed for the pin to go in from the
top. A review of my old books and photos
show it both ways. I suspect that BMW
designed it to go in from the top, the logical way. A close look at the lever shows that it has a
“flat” where one would expect the nut and washer to go. Later they found that a certain percentage
wouldn’t stay in gear due to the lever hitting the exhaust pipe. Rather than redesign the lever they just
switched the pin and solved the problem. (DuaneAusherman)
Labels:
BMW 1968,
BMW R69 S,
BMW R69S,
BMW R69S 1968,
R69S
zondag 1 maart 2020
BMW SLASH 2 CONVERSION R50-R69S 750-1000cc Engine
A Basic Guideline to Building a 1955 – 1969 BMW R50-R69S Conversion
Background
I like to restore and work
on motorcycles.
Not only make them like new
but also improve them but keep their original look as much as possible.
Some of the bikes I worked
on before:
For the next project I would
like to restore a BMW slash 2
Looking for modifications I
came across this article from Brock Downey.
A great help if you are
going to do a project like this.
For many years numerous BMW
riders have modified their pre-1970 BMW’s to except post 1969 components.
This involves minor frame
modifications and a transplant of the engine, transmission, electrical
components and various smaller items.
Personal taste influenced by
available …. has prevailed.
When completed correctly,
the finished product is very satisfying and if cared for will give many years
of trouble free service.
The following are a number
of reasons to initiate building a conversion
·
Currently owned
machine is too expensive to repair to regain limited power out put
·
Availability of
parts is greater for post 1989 motorcycles
·
Increased power
for sidecar use or to meet today’s better paved roads with a solo machine
·
The owner simply
wants the reliability of a newer powertrain and electrical system, combined
with the classic vintage appearance
Note: ideally this
modification should not be undertaken with pre 1970 machines with matching
serial numbers, that are affordable candidates for restauration to their
original condition.
These bikes should be sold
or traded to collectors or restorers.
As a point of interest, a
conversion still requires the same level of restauration of a stock bike.
Swingarm, wheel and steering
bearings, shocks and springs, brakes shoes and brake drums, spokes, rims, tires
and tubes all must be in a good to excellent condition.
The idea of building a
conversion is not to build a “bearer” that pogo sticks down the road in a
dangerous fashion and doesn’t stop well just because the builder is trying to
save a few bucks.
Conversions are actually as
expensive as stock restorations.
This is important to know
before starting.
Dreams and drawing board
Before starting it is
important to take time to discuss the following:
·
What do I want
to use the bike for – solo or sidecar
·
How much am I
willing to spend
·
When completed,
will it be a day-to-day rider or am I going to pull out all the stops and start
with a powder coated frame and finish with newly painted body parts
·
Who is a good
contact to talk with that has successfully completed a conversion, or is
mechanically knowledgeable to help and identify to pros and cons of variety of
options available before and during this project
·
Do I have access
to local painters, plating, machine and mechanical shops
·
Should I
advertise to purchase an already completed Conversion
Thinking out loud
In the early 1960’s BMW
upgraded there frames with additional bracing.
This is easily distinguished
by looking to see if the lower steering race is braced.
These frames are arguably
more suited for a conversion, yet earlier frames without the additional bracing
can also be used successfully.
The first items you will
need are obviously a pre-1970 machine and a willing post 1969 donor bike or a
good parts resource.
A complete 1970’s parts
machine may be the least expensive choice.
If you can locate one that
is mechanically sound and inexpensive, it may benefit to purchase it and later
sell off the remaining parts you do not require and off set the initial
purchase price.
Engines from 1978 and prior
are the preferred choice for the Earles fork Conversions, due to the shorter
engine design.
The later boxer engines will
fit the telescopic fork Conversions without the concern for fork clearance.
Good candidates include 750,
900 and 1000cc engines.
The 500 and 600cc engines
will also improve reliability, yet may seem as underpowered as the original
engines.
The 750-1000cc engine share
the same camshaft, therefor you can change/upgrade the cylinders, pistons,
heads and carburetors to gain the larger displacement.
The 500 and 600cc engines
share the same camshaft and can seem a little off in the event the camshaft is
not upgraded to install the 750-1000cc series components.
Staying with the same range
of displacement will allow for a minimal amount of difficulty when
changing/upgrading top end components.
There are a number of
cautions concerning items such as flywheel bolt size and cylinder sleeve to
block clearance when trying to upgrade some of the /5 series engines to later
components.
This article is not intended
to go into that level of detail.
The Project
…………………………. soon, I am still
searching …………….
If you know something just
let me know ……………………..
Labels:
/2 Conversion,
BMW /2 Conversion,
BMW Conversion,
BMW R75/2,
BMW R90/2,
R100/2,
R75/2,
R90/2
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